Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Make Sure He Doesn't Get Ripped Off Buying The Engagement Ring

   Traditionally, the proposal is supposed to be this big secret kept from the female.
Now days, girls hint at the shape of diamond they prefer, or have their friends fill in for them. And although this post is technical, it's verYYY important. Ladies, I'm here to tell you that you better specify more than a pretty shape so future hubby doesn't go into thousands worth of UNNECESSARY debt. After spending hours upon hours researching diamonds, I'm going to break it down for you:

Kay's and Tiffany & Co. have amazing advertising campaigns, but they sell you o.k level diamonds at AMAZING level diamond prices. As a matter of fact, all mall store jewelers do.

Some of you may feel crazy after reading that, but don't worry, I too was blind...and now I see. And after reading this post, you will too! HUZZAH!


In case you didn't know, the most important part of your ring, is the diamond. If you think you can't get a diamond due to monetary reasons, scratch that idea and read on. You may have heard of the 4 c's of a diamond, but there are actually 5. I'm going to rank them from most important, to least and define them in simple terms.

#1. Certificates: Not the same thing as an appraisal. Used to determine the quality of the diamond. Labs certify diamonds. The most trusted labs are GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and AGS (American Gem Society). If the stone is not GIA or AGS certified, stay away. GIA and AGS certify/grade a diamond based on the other four C's.

 The above image is from www.JamesAllen.com. It displays how light is not returned when your cut sucks at life.

#2. Cut: And you thought carat weight was next? Nope.  Ever heard of the expression a diamond in the rough? Potential diamonds are cut from rough, and if the rough is cut well, a luminous diamond will be produced. You can have a 2 carat diamond, but if the cut sucks it will shine as much as a plastic marble. When I say cut, don't confuse it with shape (i.e: princess, round, emerald, etc.). For more on cuts go here. Too see the rough cutting process in pictures go here. AGS grades cuts from 0-10. 0 is the best and is know as an AGS 0 Ideal cut. Following are 1 Excellent, 2 Very Good, 3-4 Good, 5-7 Fair, 8-10 Poor. On the other hand, GIA grades cuts as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and poor.

#3. Clarity: You can have a sweet cut and color, but if there is a giant black dot smack in the middle, the upgrade in clarity is not worth it. Spots and other marks are referred to as "inclusions".  Here is their grading from best to worst: IF, VVS1,VVS2, VSI, VS2, SI1, and SI2.


#4. Color: The yellower the diamond, the worse.  Color grading goes from D-K with K being the yellowest. D, E, F, G, H, I , J, K.  There are even lower ranks but I would stay away from those unless you crave to have the crystallized dinosaur pee look. I like the "I" rank best. Great value and great color. Doesn't look yellow.

#5. Carat Weight: As you see, in contrary to what you may think, bigger is not always better. The other C's determine what's better. To see a chart of carat weight and actual diamond size for rounds go here. To see a chart for princess/square diamonds go here.  You can also look through that site to find a chart for your favorite shape :)

 Ok, so where to buy a diamond without getting wallet-raped? The answer is, online through a reputable seller. You can now pick your diamond and then the setting (a.k.a the band or semi-mount) to create the ring of your dreams. Go to the following vendors to get started, or get an idea of what you want your honey to get you.

James Allen
Blue Nile
Good Old Gold


Tips:

-Clarity value is in the eye of the beholder. The goal is to find a diamond that is considered clean to the naked eye, or "eye-clean." A diamond could cost more with a VS1 clarity, but you could find a diamond at VS2 for less money that might have less noticeable inclusions than the more expensive VS1. That's why it's important to look at your diamond and make sure you're getting what you're paying for. These sites have high tech pictures of their diamonds available.

-Do your research, there are amazing resources out there. Please note that what is considered a good rock, also depends on additional variables outside of the 5 c's, associated with the SHAPE of your diamond. These dimensions/table/depth etc.... play a big role. I did my research on Princess cuts because that's the type I wanted. Then I made a little list of simple guidelines for my boyfriend to follow. You can do the same and pass it on to him through a friend if you'd like.

-Princess shapes are considered a fancy shape and only AGS has developed a reliable method of grading them. GIA hasn't.  Also, for a princess shape, make sure the depth and table of the stone stay between 65-75% and that the depth is always a higher percentage than the table. If you absolutely can't afford an AGS 0 Ideal princess, then pick a GIA one and make sure you request an ASET image of the stone. Once you have the ASET show it to people at the Rocky Talky forum at PriceScope.com and ask for their help.

-My favorite resource site is:  www.PriceScope.com The knowledge section there is great, forums are full of UNBIASED people who are just passionate about diamonds and ready to help. Check out the Rocky Talky forum where people will give you suggestions and opinions before you purchase your diamond.

-Cut wins. Don't compromise. Cut determines how much your diamond actually shines. Some jewelery stores have developed signature/branded cuts (such as the Kay's Leo, etc.). They will assure you it's the best, they will trash talk other diamonds, but at the end of the day GIA and AGS have the last word. Personally, I wouldn't spend my money on anything other than an AGS 0 Ideal cut , or a GIA Excellent cut. I'll compromise on the other 4 c's, but not this one.

- Do not buy a diamond that is D color, IF, and Ideal or Excellent cut. That is really a waste of money. The goal should be to get a diamond that is eye clean, not pee colored, and decent sized. In other words, the biggest bang for the buck. Not the biggest dent in your wallet with upgrades that aren't noticeable to the naked eye.

-Please note that GIA doesn't grade diamond cuts as "Ideal". AGS does. If a diamond is listed as Ideal and it's certificate is a GIA report, that diamond is being graded as "Ideal" by the jeweler, NOT by the lab. This is why certificates are important and should be verified when looking for a diamond. 

- Don't sweat it about not hitting the 1 carat mark. If you think you absolutely have to, you're watching too much WEtv, TLC, etc. Really look at the big picture. A gorgeous diamond at a reasonable price will require some give and take. Not to mention it's a symbol of your love for one another, not a symbol of how cool you are.

-I don't want to kick start my marriage with a bunch of debt, and neither should you! I'd rather invest money into my wedding budget,  honey moon, or just save it for a down payment on a house. Remember you can always upgrade on anniversaries, etc.  You can get your setting changed or even add a few more rocks to your ring in the future if that's what you'd like.

If you need any more help finding a diamond, especially a tricky princess stone,  contact me :D

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